I was just reading my last blog post from September of 2018. That's right, September! Blimey it's been a long time!!!
At least let me follow up my last ancient post. Since the fall of last year, I have managed to get a couple projects done. The Daydreamer Dolman Sweater is my brand new pattern that has been months in the making. I really wanted to design something to showcase all of the fun, cake style yarns on the market. This was made using Caron Latte Cakes and I just love how the colors present themselves in cool, geometric patterns. Of course you could go solid or design your own. I made
up this second one with short sleeves using Yarn Bee's Fur-Ever Style and trimmed it out with a pretty blue from my stash. This one is lighter weight and a nice layer to throw on over a tank. It's worked in a free size for all of us fans of loose, comfy clothes.
So that's my big new pattern, but in my last post I was talking about my All Wrapped Up in Circles & Squares Applique and how I was working on project using this motif. I ended up assembling two of the 10" squares and designing a handbag. All of the details can be found on Instagram by searching #circlesandsquaresbag You can find me on Insta @jennofwindrose and here is what the finished project looks like...
Cute, huh?
I guess I have one last share before I call it a night. I recently found a source for really nice quality Recycled Sari Silk Sliver. It is free of little threads and bits that are commonly found in recycled sari silk so its pure pleasure to spin. If you love all of the gorgeous and somewhat random colors that can be found in recycled sari silk, you will go crazy for this fiber. Oops, can't forget the pic!
Okay, I am going to call this Wednesday done. Hope life is treating you well!!
All Wrapped Up in Circles and Squares is the name of my latest pattern, but it also feels a bit like my mental state, at least the "all wrapped up" part. With one child in grad school and the other starting under grad, I have achieved a level-up of sorts. I'm greeting my newfound autonomy with over-eagerness, jumping into all of the projects that I have been promising myself I would do if I had a little more time. I have wrapped myself up in all of them.
Of these myriad projects, was the goal to design and publish more patterns. For starters, I had an idea to design a mandala, only to find out that they have been all the rage for at least a couple years. How did I get so out of touch? Oh well, I designed my mandala anyway. I call this the Tulip Mandala. There are subtle little flowers worked into the pattern.
After the mandala, I decided I wanted to create a lotus flower in profile. You see plenty of crocheted lotus flowers, but they are typically an overhead view. They start at the center and work their way out to the petals. Crocheting in the round lends itself to flowers made this way, but I have always loved that iconic lotus in profile, so I created an appliqué to be used as a centerpiece or embellishment. Here's my Lotus Flower Appliqué.
I guess after the lotus flower, I must have been on an applique kick, because that's when I designed my latest motif, All Wrapped Up in Circles and Squares. The inspiration for this design came from some old fashioned yarn play. I was stuck on a plane, so I pull out a hook and a skein of yarn (never leave home without the essentials) and just started to noodle or doodle or whatever it is we yarn people do. I ended up with a circle where the outer ring was a fully wrapped round of stitches. It was overlay and underlay. It had texture and what I think of as a stained glass effect, colors peeking out between lines. I did not know how I would use it, but I knew I had to turn it into something.
When I sat down to work with my new shape in earnest, I thought, "What if the circle becomes a square?" I turned my wrapped circle into a square and then I turned it back into another wrapped circle, and then again a square. It was a challenge to write, a brain teaser of sorts. It's easy to crochet in the round and it's easy to make a square, but going back and forth was something new, at least for me. In the end, I had a nice, big 10" square.
Currently, I'm working on designs utilizing the All Wrapped Up in Circles and Squares motif. I'm giving the first tutorial away CAL style on Instagram. You can find all of the posts by searching #circlesandsquaresbag and you can find me on Insta @jennofwindrose
I made another beanie for Craft Hope last night. This one is sized for a baby girl. I thought it might be nice to add a scalloped trim for an extra touch. If you are making the Spiral Beanie, and you would like to add a trim like this one, all I did was alter the last row of the brim as follows:
(sl st, skip st, 3 dc in next st, skip st) around
This gives you a cute little scalloped edge. I also wanted to make a flower for my brim. I was using bulky yarn, so I knew I needed a very simple and flat flower or it would overwhelm the whole hat. Here's how I made my
Six Petal Flower
ch 2
Row 1: 6 sc in second ch from hook, join with sl st to first sc
Row 2: ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st into same st, *sl st into next st, ch 2, dc, ch 2, sl st into same st* around, sl st into 1st sc and finish off. Use tail ends to sew onto hat.
I hope you enjoy these little embellishments to The Spiral Beanie Pattern!
The Circle of Hearts
Materials:
your choice of yarn and an appropriately sized hook, scissors, and 5 stitch markers
Leave a 10" tail
Rows 1-5 are worked in the round
ch 2
Row 1: work 6 sc in 2nd st from hook. Place marker in front loop of first sc
Rows 2-5: working in the round and in back loops only, sc around, place marker in front loop of first sc in each row
do not finish off
Your work should look like a tube with the tail end coming up through the middle. (you can use your hook to bring the beginning tail up through your tube) The hearts (we'll make one half at a time) are worked in the unworked front loops from Rows 1-5 in a vertical fashion. The first half will be worked from top (Row 5) to bottom (Row 1) in the stitches you have marked. The second half of that heart will be worked from bottom to top in the unworked stitches directly to the left of the first half. Please use the pictures as your guide. I have marked the loops in which we will be placing our stitches with a dot.
Beginning Hearts
First Half - sc in front loop of 1st sc from Row 5 (remove marker), (dc, 5 tr) in same st, dc in front loop of 1st sc from Row 4 (inserting hook from bottom to top as in picture below), hdc in front loop of 1st sc from Row 3, sc in front loop of 1st sc from Row 2, sl st in front loop of 1st sc from Row1
Second Half - working in unworked front loops directly to the left of first half and from bottom to top (see picture below) sl st in front loop of 2nd sc from Row1, sc in front loop of 2nd sc from Row 2, hdc in front loop of 2nd sc from Row3, dc in front loop of 2nd sc from Row 4, (5 tr, dc, sc) in front loop of 2nd sc from Row 5
Repeat First Half and Second Half respectively two more times. Each time you will be working in the unworked front loops directly to the left of the last half. Your completed Circle of Hearts will have 6 heart halves.
Finishing
After completing your 6th heart half, you should be at the top of your ornament. Sl st in front loop of 1st sc of Row 5 and finish off leaving 8". Use your hook to draw this ending tail piece through the middle of the tube as in the picture below. Tie the beginning and ending tails together using an overhand knot making sure to allow 2 to 3 inches for hanging.
Your Circle of Hearts ornament is now complete! I hope the instructions are easy to follow. This one was a little tricky to write. Please don't hesitate to ask questions in the "comments" below if you need me to clarify anything. Until next time...
(If you need a stitch guide or help with the abbreviations, Crochet 'N' More is a great place to find all of the basics.)
It was a strange feeling to hand my son a few ornaments and ask him to trim the tree. After all, it is January and I don't usually have a tree in my studio!
Since I started the 2012 Ornament Project, I figured I may as well keep my 6' pine from Terry's Village in my studio. That way, as I design a new ornament each month, I can go ahead and see how they look.
Each time I create a new design, I tend to make a handful of them. Sometimes I play around with the sizing and other times I just get caught up in the process and can't resist making several. By December, I should have a fully decorated tree. I think it will be a fun, ongoing project!
PS ~ You can find the free crochet patterns for my ornaments on the Crochet Patterns Page. This one is called The Flower Wheel.
Materials:
Crochet Hook Size J
Yarn - two colors of worsted weight yarn - Sample made with Patons Classic Wool, color Paprika [4] and Sensations Angel Hair, color 4729 [5]
Scissors, large eye needle, stitch marker (optional)
Note 1: yarn (A) will be the color with which you begin your beanie. In this case it is the Paprika (orange). The brim can be worked in either color.
Note 2: This pattern is worked in the round.
Stitches: You will be using the following stitches - chain stitch (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc) and changing colors. (∆) will symbolize changing colors throughout. I will use
this symbol when you come to the last stitch of a color. You will start
the stitch in the same color, but on the last yarn over, you will
replace your yarn with the other color and pull up your loop. *Repeat
instructions between asterisks* the number of times indicated. Crochet 'N' More has a useful stitch guide.
Beginning at the Crown:
Begin with color (A). The center of the crown should not have a hole in the middle so we'll begin with a magic ring also known as a magic circle. Wrap the tail end of your yarn, clockwise, from back to front around the index and middle fingers of the hand with which you hold your yarn. There should be 2 loops of yarn around your fingers. Insert your hook under the front loop and hook the back loop. Draw it under the front loop. Yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook. Pull the tail of your yarn to tighten the circle, but not all the way.
Sizing - Work the following rows until the diameter is the correct width for your desired hat size. Remember, circumference = 3.14 x diameter. For a 21 inch hat, the diameter should be approximately 6.5 inches. If you want a 22 inch hat, then stop when your crown has a diameter (width) of 7 inches. For a 23 inch hat, the diameter should be approximately 7.5 inches. I'm rounding these numbers, so if you want to do the math, just divide the desired size of your finished hat by 3.14 (π). For my sample hat, which is made to fit a 22" head, I worked Rows 1-12. When your diameter has reached the desired width, move on to the Body or Length of the Beanie.
Row 1: (A) work 4 sc in the circle, sc in the circle (∆ B), sc in the circle (equals 6 sts) Pull the tail end of the yarn to close the beginning circle the rest of the way.
Row 2: 2 sc in next 3 sts, sc in next st, sc in same st (∆ A), 2 sc in next 2 sts. (equals 12 sts)
Row 3: *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* 3 times, sc in next st (∆ B), 2 sc in next st, *1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st* 2 times (equals 18 sts)
Row 4: *sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st* 2 times, sc in next 2 sts, sc in next st (∆ A), sc in same st, *sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st* 3 times. (equals 24 sts)
Row 5: *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st* 2 times, sc in next st, sc in next st (∆ B), sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st* 3 times (equals 30 sts)
Row 6: *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st* 2 times, sc in next st (∆ A), sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st* 3 times. (equals 36 sts)
Row 7: *sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st* 1 time, sc in next 5 sts, sc in next st (∆ B), sc in same st, *sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st* 4 times. (equals 42 sts)
Row 8: *sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st* 1 time, sc in next 4 sts, sc in next st (∆ A), sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st* 4 times. (equals 48 sts)
Row 9: *sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st* 1 time, sc in next 3 sts, sc in next st (∆ B), sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st* 4 times. (equals 54 sts)
Row 10: sc in next 11 sts, sc in next st (∆ A), sc in next 42 sts. (equals 54 sts)
Row 11: *sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st* 1 time, sc in next st, sc in next st (∆ B), sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st* 4 times. (equals 60 sts)
Row 12: *sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st* 1 time, sc in
next st, sc in next st (∆ A), sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, *sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st* 4 times. (equals 66 sts)
Row 13: sc in next 10 sts, sc in next st, sc in same st (∆ B), * 1 time, sc in
next st, sc in next st (∆ A), *sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st* 5 times. (equals 72 sts)
Body or Length of Beanie
sc in each st around. ∆ colors in second to last st of each opposing color row. For instance, if you begin crocheting in color (B). The sts you are working into are color (A). When there are only two color (A) sts left, sc in next st (∆ A) and then continue working around in (A). Follow the pattern in this way until you reach your desired length minus 1 inch for the brim. (I recommend 7.75 to 8 inches from the top of the crown.) Sample has a total of 29 rows before the brim.
Decide which color you would like to use for the brim. On the last row of the body, you should change to this color. The remainder of the hat will be worked in the brim color, so the other yarn can be finished off leaving enough length to weave in the loose end.
Brim
(use stitch marker if desired)
Rows 1-4: sc in each st around.
Row 5: sc to last st, sl st in last st, ch 1 turn.
Row 6: Skip first st (the sl st from previous row), sc around, sc in ch 1 space.
Rows 7-13: sc in each st around.
Finishing
Sl st into next st, finish off. Fold up last 7 rows to form brim. Weave in all loose ends.
To add a scalloped trim and a flower to the brim, please visit this related post: Baby Girl Beanie
Yesterday Craft Hope announced Project 16: The Littlest Warriors. This time we'll be crafting for kids fighting cancer. Craft Hope is collecting beanie hats for babies through teens and bags for the kids to take to the hospital. You can even fill the bags with crayons, coloring or activity books and anything else the kids might like.
I couldn't wait to get started, so last night I got to work on a larger version of my Spiral Baby Beanie. I've always liked this hat and I knew it wouldn't be hard to enlarge the size. I need another day or two, but I'll be posting a free pattern for this beanie in youth to adult sizes.
For this particular hat, I picked colors that I thought would look cute on a little boy, but half the fun is making them in different colors every time. You can get creative with embellishments too. On my Crochet Patterns Page you'll find a couple free flower patterns and a little leaf. You could also buy sew-on decals for boys and girls at most craft or fabric stores. Novelty yarns can also take this beanie to the next level. Imagine a fur trim or a nice bouclé.
I like to get the kids involved in these projects too, so I'll be designing an easy sew fleece hat or something that we can do together. My boys just don't want to learn to crochet. Can you imagine that?
The Flower Wheel
Ch 2
Row 1: work 6 sc in second ch from hook, sl st to beg sc
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as first dc) 2 dc in same st, 3 dc in each st around, join with sl st to top of beg ch 3 - 18 dc
Row 3: *ch 5, skip st, sc in next st* 8 times
Row 4; ch 5, skip next st, sc in first unworked st from Row 3 (working in front of the loops), *ch 5, sc in next unworked st* 8 times, ch 5, sl st to first sc made in Row 4
Finishing: Pull loop on hook until it measures 2.25 inches. Cut off yarn leaving 4” for weaving. Tie the loop and the 4” piece using the beginning shoe lace tie. Weave in all loose ends.
Picture Notes:
It's a simple little shape and makes up very quickly.
To me it looks like a cross between a flower and a wheel, so that's why
I named it The Flower Wheel. I played around with the size by changing
the stitch in row 2 to a hdc or a sc, but in the end, I liked the look
of the dc best.
If you need a stitch guide or help with the abbreviations, Crochet 'N' More is a great place to find all of the basics.
I have a goal for myself this year. This coming Christmas, that's right, just under 12 months away, I want to decorate a tree with ornaments that are all handmade. Specifically, I want them to be crocheted and/or possibly tatted. The rules I have made for myself are as follows:
1. The yarn must be handspun by me.
2. If I choose to add color, then I have to dye the yarn or finished ornaments. (I haven't decided whether I want to add color because I think a tree all decorated in ecru would be pretty.)
3. I have to design the ornaments. They will probably be uncomplicated, just shapes that I find appealing.
4. I will share the designs each month here on my blog, so if you like something I design, you can make it too!
The next post on The 2012 Ornament Project will be labeled "January" and then each month to come will also have an ornament post.
I've already started preparations for this month. Yesterday, I spun the Merino yarn pictured above and let me say that this is the skein that finally pushed me over the edge with my spinning wheel. I've been thinking about replacing my Louet S10 DT for some time now and I keep talking myself out of it. By the time I began spinning the second singles for this two ply, I was fed up. In fact, I paused in my spinning, ordered a new wheel online, and then finished up this skein as quickly as I could. I just can't stand how noisy my Louet wheel has become and it's more than just a squeak that I could lube although there's that too. It's the bobbin sliding and knocking around the all of the superfluous movement that the wheel generates. Argh!
Sorry about that. I needed to rant. Still, I managed to spin about 115 yards of 2ply Merino. I plied this skein a little tighter that I often do and I like how it looks and the springy feel. I think it will make pretty ornaments.
To the left of the yarn is January's ornament. I've already come up with the design using the yarn I plied from my Turkish drop spindle the other day. Now I just need to write up the pattern and make an ecru version. I think the dye free yarn will be better for my post. The stitches will be easier to see and I'll take some photographs along the way.
So this is my plan. I'll be designing 12 ornaments over the next 12 months and you are welcome to come along and join in the project. The designs will be quick and easy, so they might be nice to do with the kids or a beginning crochet class. Now I just have to stay on task and make my goal!
I'm back to share this week's adventures in teaching crochet. My crochet class meets on Tuesday mornings, so I am writing this after the fact. Of course blog posts are sort of frozen in time, so I guess it doesn't matter all that much whether I talk about the class before or after it happens. I just like the idea of bringing you along for the ride.
I always tell my kids to have their assignments done at least 24 hours early so they have time to tweak them or possibly to remember any details they may have missed. Do I take my own advice? No, I'm afraid not. When did I prepare for my Tuesday crochet class? Monday! So rather than leisurely getting things together, I celebrate mad Monday where I run around like a crazy woman, shopping for supplies, working through patterns, filming tutorials and writing up designs. As a matter of fact, as I came out of Joann's with two bags full of yarn and other various supplies, I had the strongest sense of deja vu. I wondered to myself if this feeling would become a weekly occurrence.
So let's talk about the actual lesson plan. Last week my fellow teacher and I introduced crocheted flowers to the class. They were such a big hit that it was decided that we would focus on flowers as a theme for the time being. Our first project was the Deco Rose whose pattern I now have listed here at Wind Rose. The Deco Rose was a very good starting pattern. This week we tackled a Zinnia Flower.
Years ago I found a Zinnia pattern on Crochet Pattern Central that I really liked. When I went back to find it, I had no luck. If it's still there, it's hiding from me. I remembered the basic premise, so I just wrote my own pattern. I knew that the Zinnia Flower Pattern would be more of a challenge for our students, so I made a video tutorial for it as well. Actually, since I was filming anyway, I made videos for the Deco Rose, Zinnia and also a Veined Leaf. I think the video tutorials really help. The class can watch the project from beginning to end and then feel more confident as they follow the directions and make the pattern themselves.
In preparation for teaching class, I also worked through a traditional rose pattern that one of the students saw in my book Crochet Bouquet. I wanted to be ready to help her through the pattern if she wanted to give it a try. In a nutshell, I wrote up patterns for the Deco Rose, the Zinnia and the Veined Leaf. I made samples of each including the traditional Rose, and I filmed and edited three video tutorials. That was a lot to do in one day!
On the upside, I shouldn't have as much to do for next week. I'll probably add one more flower to the collection and write up a couple more patterns, but whether I'm preparing like crazy or not, it's all worth it. The class had a great time today visiting and crocheting. Flowers were made and newer members were inspired to learn. I thoroughly enjoy the time I spend this this great group of people. Also, from one crocheter to another, I like passing on my lesson plans. I hope you enjoy the patterns and if you happen to teach a class of your own, maybe your class will have fun with these flowers too. Until next time...
Here's a simple pattern for creating a pretty Veined Leaf. You can also follow along with a complete YouTube tutorial. That video can be found here: How to Crochet a Veined Leaf
Veined Leaf Pattern
chain 10 leaving 8” beg tail
Side 1: working in back loops of beginning chain, 3 dc in fourth st from hook, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next st, sl st in last st, ch 1, sl st in ch just made (leaf point made)
Side 2: working down the other side of the beginning chain in the front loops, sl st in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 3 sts, work 3 dc in next st, join with sl st to top of beg ch 3
Stem: chain 4, sl st in second st from hook and in next two sts. sl st to next dc, finish off weaving in all loose ends
I posted the pattern for this flower just recently, but I'm sharing it again because now you can also follow along with a complete YouTube tutorial. You can find the video by clicking this link: How to Crochet a Deco Rose
Deco Rose Pattern
chain 21 leaving 12” beg tail
Row 1: work 2 sc in second st from hook and in each stitch across, ch 3 turn (40 sc)
Row 2: dc in 1st st, work 2 dc in each st across (80 dc incl. beg ch 3)
cut off pulling yarn through final st to create a knot. Leave 12” ending tail
Curl flower into the desired shape. Thread large eye needle with one tail end. Use this yarn to weave in and out of the end rows in the center of the flower back. Leave yarn off to one side
Thread the remaining tail end. Repeat sewing above to secure the shape of the flower. Leave yarn off the the opposite side of the first tail end. Use ends to affix flower to pin back or other projects.
I just wrote up this pattern for my crochet class, so I'm happily sharing it with you as well. The Veined Leaf Pattern is also coming.
In addition to the written instructions below, you can view a complete video tutorial on my youtube channel. How to Crochet a Zinnia Flower
Zinnia Pattern
chain 2 leaving 12” beg tail
pattern is worked in the round
Row 1: 6 sc in second st from hook
Row 2: working in back loops only, 2 sc in each st around (12 sc)
Row 3: working in back loops of Row 2, sl st in next st, ch 10, sl st in same st, repeat around until you have 12 large petals
Row 4: Working in front loops of Row 2, sl st in next st, ch 8, sl st in same st, repeat around until you have 12 medium petals
Row 5: Working in front loops of Row 1, sl st in next st, ch 6, sl st in same st, repeat around until you have 6 small petals
Finish off weaving in all loose ends on the back side of the flower or use to affix flower to pin back or other projects.
I'm a little later than I said I'd be with this post. Sorry about that! Anyway, today I'm starting a series of posts about teaching crochet. Right now I'm partnered with another teacher and we are teaching a crochet class with the ultimate goal of designing products that the students will be able to sell for additional income. Our class has a unique dynamic in that the faces can change from week to week and the skill levels range from absolute beginner to some experience. We like to present a project that our students can make from start to finish in our two hour class time. With each new project, we hope to expand the skills of our students while having good, creative fun.
For this particular class, we decided to make a flower pin. This was my idea, so I began by exploring my personal library for basic flower patterns. I have a zinnia pattern that I make a lot, but I wasn't sure that it would be a good, first flower project.
There are so many great flowers out there, but our students, for the most part, are comfortable with chaining and single crochet. I wanted a flower that might introduce one new stitch, but not two or three. At least for our initial flower project, I wanted to avoid anything too complicated.
That's when I remembered a simple, deco style rosette that I made with a previous class. I searched my computer hard drive and was able to find my old pattern. In addition to that, I still had a scarf, embellished with these flowers in my studio. It's always nice to have a sample piece.
The moment I thought of these little spiral flowers, I knew they would be a good beginning project.
The next thing I did was grab a hook, skein of yarn and a yarn meter to work through the project. It's nice to have a yarn meter when you teach because you can determine exactly how much yardage a project requires. That way, you can cut off pieces of yarn in advance and make project kits, or if more than one person likes the same skein of yarn, you can cut off the right amount for each student and share.
Here's a little picture of my yarn meter. You just slip the yarn through and then there is a small lever you depress to keep the yarn is place. The yarn passes easily through the meter as you crochet. At the end of a project, you can see just how many feet of yarn you've gone through. It's very easy to then round up to the nearest yard. My little spiral flower used 35 feet of yarn so I know that 12 yards of yarn is plenty for making one flower. I bought this particular meter at The Woolery and it's been very dependable.
Now that I had zeroed in on a flower, I needed to be ready to teach the students how to make it. It's always best if you can find the time to work through your project. Even though this spiral flower is something I designed myself, it had been a long time since I'd made one. Also, my old design notes had instructions for making the flower in three different sizes, so I needed to settle in on a size.
In and ideal world, I would have written down a nice, succinct pattern for the class. As life would have it, I ran out of time and decided to just talk the class through the pattern. Only a couple of our students are comfortable following patterns, so I figured that this would be okay. Of course, I would like to get to the point where everyone can read a pattern, so next week, I'll be ready with a written version.
So in case you kind of like this little flower, here's how it's made:
Chain 21 leaving a 12 inch tail
Row 1: work 2 single crochets into the second chain from the hook and in each st across = 40 sc
(the piece will begin to curl into a corkscrew shape)
Row 2: Chain 3 turn, double crochet in first stitch then work two double crochets in each stitch across = 80 dc (beginning chain 3 counts as first dc)
Finish off leaving a 12 inch tail.
Now, starting from one end, wrap the curly piece around until you form a rosette. you can control how tight or loose you would like your rosette to be. Then using a large eyed needle, thread the yarn in the center of the rosette and pass it through to the back of the flower, tacking the center in place. Next, weave or whip stitch the tail in and out of the end rows in the center of the back of the flower to hold the shape of the rosette. Finish with this tail piece being just off to one side of the center of your flower.
Now thread the other tail end. Tack this end of your flower in place with a couple of stitches to the back of the flower. Then you can weave this tail through the end rows just as you did before to make sure the shape of the flower is secure. Finish with this tail piece being to the opposite side of the first one. The two tail pieces should be about an inch apart. Then you can thread them through a pin back and use a good square knot to tie the pin back in place.
These little flowers also look great felted and can be used to accent hats, scarves, you name it! To make the rosette bigger or smaller, jut make your beginning chain longer or shorter. A cluster of 3 or 5 flowers in different sizes can look really cute.
These flowers look pretty made out of multicolored or textured yarn. You can embellish your flower with a bead in the middle. Just let your imagination run wild!
...Yesterday was our crochet class and the flower pattern turned out to be a lot of fun. Our students were able to successfully complete the project and left with pretty rosette brooches pined to their shirts. As a matter of fact, the flowers were such a hit that we are going to continue with this theme and work on a few different kinds of flowers and maybe some leaves too.
If you are learning to crochet or teaching a class of your own, give this pattern a try. It's fun to be able to wear your finished project and be able to say, "I made it!"
The Felted Lantern Necklace is one of the free crochet patterns you'll find here on my blog. I'm getting ready to use this pattern for a crochet class, so I decided to make a companion video.
When I first designed this necklace, it was for a young crochet class. At the time I called it "The Hopes and Dreams Necklace". That might sound like a funny name, but there's a reason. Each student selected a special little stone and as they did so, they attached to it one of their own secret hopes or dreams. Then, as we crocheted the pendant, the little stone was placed inside. Once felted, only the crocheter knows the secret of the stone. The necklace becomes a symbol of that particular hope or dream.
When I published the pattern here on my blog, I changed the name to The Felted Lantern. I was afraid that The Hopes and Dreams Necklace might sound a little silly to the general population. I chose The Felted Lantern because the shape reminded me of the Chinese paper lanterns so many of us make as children. I sort of regret changing the name, but the pattern has been published in several places, so it would be confusing to switch now. I just thought I'd share the story of the necklace with you tonight.
I'm pleased to offer this new free pattern today. The Summer Cotton Crocheted Bracelet was inspired by a trip to Virgin Gorda. It's perfect for those casual, carefree days of summer when only the feel of cool cotton will do. This bracelet is so fun and easy to make. You'll want to design one for all of your friends!
This pattern will make a bracelet that is 7 inches long from one end of the clasp to the other. This is a medium size. At the end of the directions, I will discuss how to make the bracelet a little larger or smaller so that you can customize it to your needs. I will also suggest some fun variations to spark your imagination. 
You will need:
Aunt Lydia's Crochet Cotton Size 3 (Natural)
32 Size 6/0 Glass Beads
Crochet Hook US D3/3.25 mm
Beading needle
Sewing needle
Scissors
Clasp (I'm using a lobster clasp with a closed ring)
Threading The Beads
Before you begin to crochet, use your beading needle to easily slip your beads onto the cotton thread. You may want to thread a few extra in case you need to increase the size of your bracelet or just so you don't have to worry about miscounting. It's fine to have too many beads, but you don't want to be a bead or two short. Slide your beads a couple feet down the thread and you are ready to begin.
Making The Bracelet
Begin with a slip knot on your hook leaving a 10" tail for sewing on clasp [picture 1]
Row 1: ch 2, sc in 2nd st from hook, ch 1 turn
Row 2: 2 sc in st, ch 1 turn
Row 3: 2 sc in each st, ch 1 turn (4 sts in row)
Row 4: sc across (4 sts) [picture 2]
Beaded Chain 1: ch 3, (slide a bead down close to your hook and ch 1, ch 3) 6 times for a total of 27 chs. Ch 3 more, turn, sc in 2nd st from hook and in next st (beginning of opposite end rows) [pictures 3 & 4]
Beaded Chain 2: ch 1, (slide a bead down close to your hook and ch 1, ch 3) 6 times, slide a bead down close to your hook and ch 1, ch 1 for a total of 27 chains, sl st into same st as the beginning of Beaded Chain 1, sl st in the next st of row 4 [pictures 5 & 6]
*Note: While you should be careful not to twist your Beaded Chains, don't be overly concerned if some of the beads are facing in opposite directions. When the bracelet is done, you will be able to give it a little tug and manipulate the chains so that the beads are all facing up.
Beaded Chain 3: ch 3, (slide a bead down close to your hook and ch 1, ch 3) 6 times for a total of 27 chs. sc into the last two sts (the opposite end rows created in Beaded Chain 1) ch 1 turn, sc in first two sts
Beaded Chain 4: ch 1, (slide a bead down close to your hook and ch 1, ch 3) 6 times, slide a bead down close to your hook and ch 1, ch 1 for a total of 27 chains, sl st into next st of Row 4, sl st into final st of Row 4
Beaded Chain 5: ch 3, (slide a bead down close to your hook and ch 1, ch 3) 6 times for a total of 27 chs. sc into the last two sts (the opposite end rows created in Beaded Chain 1) ch 1
FinishingWorking along the opposite end rows of your Beaded Chains [picture 7], sc dec two times, ch 1 turn, sc dec, ch 1 turn, sc, finish off leaving 10 inches for sewing on clasp. Use the beginning and ending tails of thread to sew on your clasp. Weave in loose ends.
Pattern Notes
1. When the bracelet is complete, I like to give it a gentle tug. Cotton has a little bit of give and this allows the beaded chains to even out and lay nice.
2. Sizing - The best way to adjust the size is to increase or decrease the Beaded Chains by 4. This adjustment measures just about 1/2 inch. For example, if you want to make a bracelet that is 8 inches long, you will add 8 ch sts to the Beaded Chains. Remember to account for the additional beads. If you desire a bracelet that is 6 1/2 inches long, then you will need to subtract 4 ch sts from the Beaded Chains.
3. After you have successfully completed your first Summer Cotton Crocheted Bracelet, you can have fun making up new variations on the pattern.
You could double the pattern for a cuff style bracelet.
If you'd rather not sew on a clasp, you could use the tail ends to simply tie on your bracelet. For a sturdier tie, you could begin and end your bracelet with chains long enough to tie and untie.
You could also make up this pattern with metal wire or handspun yarn.
You could use one bead for every stitch of the Beaded Chains for a striking bangles or you could substitute the beads for charms. You may decide to use no beads at all for a more laid-back look.
I hope you enjoy making this pattern your own!
Related Posts:
Summer Cotton Crocheted Bracelet
Summer Cotton Crocheted Bracelet ~ The Pattern is Coming!
Here's a handy list of knit and crochet abbreviations provided by Lion Brand.
The first thing I did this morning was go into my studio and crochet this bracelet. I've had this design in my head since my vacation to Virgin Gorda a few weeks ago. While I was on the island, I saw a bracelet in a little beach shop that was simple, but cute. I took a couple mental notes because I knew right away that I wanted to come home and put my own spin on it.
Ever since I was a teenager, I have loved what I think of as summer jewelry. You know, those great hemp and cotton bracelets or necklaces that you tie on and just wear until they fall apart. Whether they're knotted or braided, plain or beaded, they just seem to be a part of the summer season. I used to gauge how tan I was by shifting my bracelet and seeing how fair my skin remained beneath. 
The bracelet I saw in Virgin Gorda was actually leather with plain leather straps made to look like a group of bangles. I do love that bangle look, but what really caught my eye was that each end was crocheted. Now I have to admit that there was a time when I probably would have had some difficulty figuring out how to make this bracelet especially in one continuous piece. Now, having made and designed Miser's Purses, I knew almost without thinking how I could create a multiple chained bracelet in one unbroken piece. Maybe it's silly, but I have this thing about having as few knots or joins as possible in anything I make. I just think it improves the integrity and strength of the finished product.
In the end, its just a simple cotton bracelet. It could be made in all sorts of colors. It could have charms instead of beads or no beads at all. It's the kind of piece that's fun to make because you can change it up a little every time. I think I will always love wearing unassuming pieces of jewelry like this and I know they will always make me think of summer.
I'm thinking of writing this pattern up to share here on my blog. As pattern writing is always a bit of work, I like to check first to see if anyone out there is interested. So if you would like me to write this pattern, leave a comment on this post. I don't need a lot of encouragement. Just a little. :D
