Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Mini Muk Luks ~ Crochet-Along ~ Part IV


I don't know about you, but I'm pretty happy to be done with Part III. Now we are done assembling our shapes and it's time to finish working the foot and making the soles.

I know it seems like your boot is not going to be long enough for your foot, but we'll be adding several more rows before we crochet the very bottom of the sole. Also, remember that most yarns stretch a least a little. If your Mini Muks start out fitting more closely, after you wear them a few times, they will probably be perfect.
Here we go!

Part IV

*Note - hdc dec (half double crochet decrease) - YO, insert hook into st, YO, pull up a loop, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook, YO, insert hook into next st, YO, pull up a loop, YO and draw through 2 loops on hook, YO and draw through remaining 3 loops on hook.

Hold your Mini Muk so that the right side of the SQ that covers the top of the foot is facing you. Join Yarn B with sl st where that SQ meets the ∆ on the right side as shown in the picture above.

Row 1: sc in same st as joining, sc around SQ, 7 sc into next ∆, 3 hdc into the rest of ∆, 2 dc into each of the three corner sts of the SQ around the heel, 3 hdc into the beg of the next ∆, 6 sc across the rest of teh ∆, join with sl st to first sc. (48 sts around)




Row 2: ch 2 (counts as 1st hdc now and throughout) hdc in next 2 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) 9 times, hdc to the heel, dc in same 6 dc from Row 1, hdc in remaining sts, join with sl st to top of beg. ch 2 changing colors to Yarn A (do not cut Yarn B) (57 sts around)
Row 3: with Yarn A, ch 2, hdc around joining with a sl st to top of beg ch 2 and changing back to Yarn B (57 sts around)
Row 4: with Yarn B, ch 2, hdc around joining with a sl st to top of beg ch 2 (57 sts around)
Row 5:
ch 2, working in back loops only, hdc around joining with a sl st to top of beg ch 2 (57 sts around)
Row 6: Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc now and throughout) 2dc in next st, dc in next 10 sts, (dc dec over next 2 sts) 6 times, dc in next 17 sts,
(dc dec over next 2 sts) 6 times, dc in next 4 sts, join with sl st to top of beg ch 3
Row 7: Ch 3, dc in next 12 sts, work dc dec over next 6 sts (Do this just as you would dec over 2 sts only keep going until you have attached six sts to your hook, YO and draw through all 7 loops on your hook.), dc in next 17 sts, work dc dec over next 6 sts, dc in last 4 sts. Finish off leaving a 12" tail for sewing your seam.


Now you can turn your boot inside out and use the 12" tail to close the opening. Since the tail is on the side, weave it in and out of sts until you reach one end. This will make it easy to whip stitch across and make a neat seam. Securely weave in your remaining tail end, but avoid bulky knots. Your foot will be resting right on top of this seam.

While your boot is inside out, take the opportunity to weave in your loose ends from Part IV.

Finishing Soles

To help our Mini Muk Luks have a nice long life and to keep them from being too slippery, we'll attach a piece of fabric onto our soles. Choose a fabric like leather or suede, either real or faux. I happen to be using a fabric I found that is made out of recycled plastic. It helps to pick a fabric that does not fray. If your fabric has a tendency to fray at the ends, use some Fray Check or fold the ends under as you work your way around the sole. You will also need a needle and strong thread. Embroidery floss works well.


You can make a pattern for your soles by resting your foot on a piece of paper. Draw lines marking the toe, heel and both sides. Use these markings to form a rectangle. Just eyeball a gentle curve around each corner of your rectangle. Cut out your shape and pin it to the fabric. Use your pattern to cut out two pieces of fabric. You may need to trim the size a little to fit your Muk Luks, but this gives you a good starting form.




After you have your fabric trimmed and the size looks good, pin you fabric to the sole of your Muk Luks. Use the edge created in Row 5 as a guide. Once again, I use a simple whip stitch to attach the fabric to the soles. I space my sts about a quarter inch apart along the sides, but a bit closer around the toe and heel. This makes for a smooth edge around the corners.





Now we have finished Parts 1-4. We're practically done! Only one more part to go!

In Part V we'll be making the top edge of our Mini Muk Luks along with the cute, plied tassels that hang from each side.

Part V will be quick and easy and then your new Mini Muks will be ready to wear!

I'll be back on April 10th with this final step. Until then, write me if you need me. :D








Related Posts:
Mini Muk Luks ~ Crochet-Along ~ Part I
Mini Muk Luks ~ Crochet-Along ~ Part IIMini Muk Luks ~ Crochet-Along ~ Part IIIMini Muk Luks ~ Crochet-Along ~ Part IVMini Muk Luks ~ Crochet-Along ~ Part V

Follow-up article

11 comments:

maja said...

What to say except a big big thank you!!!

Kaitlyn said...

First off, I must say that I was so excited to find this blog post. I am living in an eskimo village in Alaska and have been searching for someone to make or teach me how to make traditional eskimo mukluks. I have not had any luck. All the elders who used to make the mukluks have passed away or are too old to make them anymore. I know these aren't traditional mukluks, but it's fun to be able to make them anyway.

However, I did have a question. Row 1 on part IV states that we should have 48 stitches around. I was meticulous in following the directions, but kept getting 52 stitches. For rows 2-5 I was supposed to have 57 stitches, but had 61. My mukluks seem a bit lopsided, and I think that the number of stitches may be the culprit. I think one side of the foot has more stitches than the other. I wasn't sure where I went wrong or where the best place was to fix the problem.

Anonymous said...

How many sts do you use to make a bgger size?

Jennifer Inman said...

Kaitlyn, Idid the same thing. Error round was the firat set of 7 hdc. They are spread over the lenght of the triangle. Reviewing the phot should help. I am in the process of redoing the whole sole part for both slippers.

Jennifer Inman said...

Not sure what happened with the text above... but the error I found was while working the 1st set of 7 hdc. They should be evenly spaced over the triangle (leaving space for the sc). Reviewing the photo should illustrate this.

Tammie Edwards said...

i love his pattern but was wondering if theres anyway to make them in a larger size like 8 1/2 or 9 in women also size 10 1/2 womens

Anonymous said...

I wish you would have made another video to follow along with my stitches do not match up no matter what I do... your videos make it much easier to figure out where I went wrong

Laura said...

I just spent the last few days making these...they were my first project besides scarves! They turned out great...going to try a second pair. Thanks for your helpful tutorial!

Suzanne said...

What happened to the video I was loving it since I'm not all that great at trying to read the pattern :(

Jenn said...

I'm sorry to disappoint. I only made videos for parts 1-3 because I felt they were the most difficult and I had a limited amount of time.

Anonymous said...

Really wish you reconsider making the video ..I'm a visual and like following the steps ...Now I'm stuck and will have to improvise..��